The eagerly awaited 2008 update on all Naxos news is coming soon! Watch this space.
And this is the space you have been induced to watch and there will not be much here. The Guide has to admit to finding Naxos rather disappointing in June 2008. More building everywhere - how do the owners expect to make a profit with visitor numbers declining? The Guide makes a distinction - with no opprobrium (for a year or more the non-word 'ob' has been standing here mainly because The Guide couldn't spell opprobrium) intended - between tourists and holiday-makers. Tourists at at a place because that is the place they want to be. Holiday-makers are exactly what the phrase intends - they are away from home for sun, sea, sand and it doesn't matter to them where they are. Previously the Naxos balance has tipped towards the tourist now it is overwhelmingly holiday-makers. This has the accompaniment of all the trappings holiday-makers need so that the beautiful beaches of Naxos cannot now be seen through the forest of brightly coloured umbrellas and such-like. Not the Greek Island it has always been but the ubiquitous holiday resort. Not that The Guide - heaven forfend! - was ever one of those who ever rhapsodised over unspoilt islands with donkeys, unwashed peasants, lumpy mattresses, lack of water and maggoty bread, comfort is very important, but the relaxed, fairly sophisticated style of Naxos has been subsumed by a different ethos. Just not to The Guide's taste.
If you have any views or stories about Naxos please e-mail The Guide. Anything reasonably literate is welcome: Reviews of hotels, bars, tavernas or quis quis; stories and memories; tips or most anything you think will interest other visitors to Naxos. Already The Guide has had a couple of people writing in with Naxos memories – many more would be very welcome. One excellent thing to start up would be a sort of NaxosFriendsOrEnemiesRe-united to get news on all those people you've met in Naxos and not seen again. To date the whereabouts of Adrian and Glen have been demanded.
The Guide will keep its profuse apologies in case there are some who haven't seen it. It seems it was implied that Adrian (see bulletin board) and Ray started The Last Resort but - thanks to Sarah from Leeds who indirectly supplied the information - in fact it was Pav's bar originally, started, probably, in 1989.
East West now has its own website - click HERE to view it.
Don't forget Dave has bought a place at Aghia Anna behind Gorgona - Pan-Orama - and is renting it out.
The buses to and from town to Procopios, Aghia Anna and Plaka are now extremely frequent (evidently, though, only in season - they were few and far between at Easter time 2010) but the service to the rest of the island has been severely curtailed hence the timetable has been removed.
The Guide should have started this page, when first publishing, by giving reasons why you should choose Naxos for your holiday rather than any other island - it is assumed you already have reasons for wanting to go to Greece. Although the island has changed much over the years it is still not totally swamped with tourism. Unlike so many other islands, most restaurants and bars will be at least half full of local Greeks for Naxos has always been a - relatively - rich island and still has other ways of making money than the tourists. It is said that the fortunes of Naxos were based on citron which became a fashionable drink at the beginning of last century and Naxos as its only source. The Guide has always understood that the money of Naxos came from emery and seed potatoes - so who knows? Hence it is more relaxed than other Greek resorts whose fortunes have been built entirely on tourism yet at the same time lively. There are almost an uncountable number of places to eat and drink and, in some of them, you can even eat well. There are many miles of sandy beaches with superbly clear waters and numerous little coves off the beaten track if you want to be alone. You can expect continuous blue skies only broken occasionally by a welcome thunder storm but, usually, there is a pleasantly cooling breeze blowing. (Quite a miserable October last year - 2005 - however). The Chora is the main town and, though its centre is small, you can wander for ages in the twisting medieval lanes surrounding the Venetian castle (Castro). Away from the tourist centres of Chora, Procopios, Aghia Anna, Plaka and Apollonas the Naxian way of life continues as ever. The centre of the island is mountainous and green with plenty of places to explore on foot, bike or car. The Naxiots are welcoming and friendly to strangers - well, most are - you can still find the prototype miserable owner of a taverna or bar. It's just a nice place to go. Try it. Many have and many have been hooked, returning year after year, some finally settling there.
Essentially, Naxos stays the same, a bit busier every year, more building, businesses open and close but the feel is the same. Paradise is as ever but with the sons' wives taking a more prominent position in running it.
The taxi to Naxos town costs upwards of 10 euros from the airport which seemed a lot to us (particularly as the fare from town to Procopios is still round about 7 euros) but, evidently, a premium is charged for journeys to the port or airport.
Some recommendations (again) for two newish businesses - we've mentioned them before - both characterised by the charm and friendliness of the service. First has to be Golden Beach at Procopios. This is very much a family business with most of the produce coming from one relative or other. It has become one of our firm favourites. It has rooms above which are very pleasant some with views to the sea and just a minute's walk to get in swimming. Remember, however, it is a café with limited food - breakfast, coffee and excellent cakes and ice creams, omelettes, red, white and rosé Tsantalis and various spirits, etc.. The other is the Esperanto Café on the Paralia.
Also, please note, one of The Guide's recommendations, the Eden vegetarian restaurant in Athens is closed on a Tuesday - as The Guide was disappointedly to find out on a recent visit - still, never mind, a very pleasant evening can be had on the rooftop of the restaurant next door - Old Taverna Kritikou. STOP PRESS, AS THEY SAY, EDEN IS NOW CLOSED, FINISHED. IF ANYONE KNOWS IF IT HAS RE-OPENED AT A DIFFERENT SITE PLEASE LET THE GUIDE KNOW! Alas, Athens has lost Zonars its fin de siècle cafe near Syntagma but, against that, it has gained a popular little bar run by Katerina, Lalos' sister, Iliosporo in the thriving new quarter of Psiri on Iroon Square - for information on this pleasant area try www.athensguide.com/psiri.html . This year The Guide tried a hotel just round the corner from Psiri, the Evripides, at the cost of £35 a night and it can be recommended for the not too discerning. It has recently been renovated to a good degree, has masses of hot water, a lobby leading to the bathroom and a door into a fairly large room with a small balcony and air-conditioning - for which you have to pay a further 5 Euros, getting the control from reception. It has a roof top bar with superb views of Athens where a buffet breakfast is served with a fair variety and no limits. It is halfway between Monastiraki and Omonia so handy for everywhere. The Guide, on arriving in Evripides Odos, thought a big mistake had been made as the street was dirty, shabby, seedy and full of sinister groups of men loitering but, the next morning, it was transformed into a fascinating, bustling shop-lined street selling herbs and spices and various exotica. Also, The Guide finally made it to Paros and stayed in pleasant rooms, Marios Fragoulis Rooms and Apartments telephone 22840 24268, info@mariosrooms.com . He meets the ferries so, unless you're there in the busiest times, you should be able to get a room from him very easily.
The Guide did not see all that much change in Athens post-Olympics. The building sites have gone and Syntagma is a square again. Anybody used to the trams in Croydon, say, fast with right of way, will find the Athens' version very slow - everything else seems to take priority. The new tubes are good, fast, clean but, thank god, the rickety old service from Piraeus hasn't changed! (unfortunately, this was written in 2005. Now, 2006, it has changed - faster, cleaner but just ordinary). The tube/train to the airport is excellent - whatever the timetables seem to imply, however, allow at least an hour for the journey. Mostly it is necessary to change at Plakentias. The bus is cheaper, however, and, depending on road conditions, quicker but arrives and departs from Syntagma.
So, then, welcome to your complete on-line guide to the most beautiful of Aegean Islands, Naxos, Ariadne's Isle.
The Guide suggest new visitors first go to INTRODUCTION for explanations to help you to get the best out of this guide. Otherwise, INDEX provides links to all sections.
These pages include:
NAXOS HOTELS, NAXOS ROOMS, NAXOS RESTAURANTS, BARS,
NIGHT CLUBS, SHOPS, SUPERMARKETS, NAXOS BEACHES, TRAVEL,
SERVICES, NAXOS PLACES OF INTEREST
With also
INTERACTIVE NAXOS MAPS, A BRIEF HISTORY OF NAXOS,
Those wishing to advertise on this site should click
And, please note, the free advertising period is coming to an end and any business that has not paid the minimal fee will be removed before the next summer season.
"(Naxos and Paros) seem to coexist in the mind as being of
comparable charm and magnitude. But there are several radical differences ....
If Naxos is a vivid parrot, then Paros is a white dove. You wake earlier in
Naxos, but you sleep deeper in Paros." Lawrence Durrell